Honestly, I've had issues with both of those and they're kinda disappointing for different reasons. The Atomos Ninja V 5-inch 4K Recording Monitor is supposed to be the industry standard but it’s a total pain for weddings. It gets way too hot and that fan noise is just unacceptable during a quiet ceremony. Plus, once you buy the SSDs and batteries, you're gonna be way over your $650 budget. I really wanted to like the Portkeys LH5P II 5.5-inch 2200nit Touchscreen Monitor because of the camera control, but the software is just not as good as expected. It's glitchy and the menu system drives me crazy when I'm in a rush. Since you're shooting in that harsh Sydney sun, you just need raw brightness. I ended up using the FeelWorld LUT7 7-inch 2200nit Ultra Bright Monitor. It feels a bit cheap and plasticky honestly, but it’s actually visible outdoors and wont crash on you like the Portkeys.

Re: "Caught this thread a bit late but i..."

• I struggled with visibility issues until I tried the Osee T7 7 Inch 3000nits Field Monitor. I took it out for a midday coastal shoot and it was the first time I could actually see my focus peaking... it just works. Its a solid budget-friendly workhorse tbh. Tip: buy the beefiest NP-F batteries you can find cuz high brightness drains them fast.

Caught this thread a bit late but i totally feel your pain with the a7S III screen. Honestly, i was in the same boat last year doing a high-end coastal shoot and realized the hard way that 1000 nits just doesnt cut it when the sun is directly overhead. I ended up switching to a high-brightness panel that hits 2200 nits and i havent had a single complaint since. It basically saved my workflow because i can actually see my false color levels and peaking without needing a bulky sunhood. One thing you really gotta watch out for though is the thermal throttling. I have seen so many people buy these super bright displays only to have the software dim the screen by 50% as soon as the unit gets warm in the sun. Its a massive trap for a wedding shoot because you might think your exposure is dropping when really the hardware is just protecting itself from melting. Also, please be careful with how you mount the thing. Those micro HDMI ports on the Sony are notoriously finicky and fragile. I always use a dedicated cable clamp now because a heavy monitor pulling on that tiny port is a recipe for a broken camera. Im very satisfied with a simpler, high-nit setup that focuses on raw visibility over fancy camera control features that usually just glitch out anyway once the temperature hits 30 degrees. Trust me, simple and bright is the way to go for outdoor gigs.