+1 to what was said earlier. The 11mm mentioned is decent, but I had issues with that fixed focal length when trying to frame things quickly. Honestly, the FX30 crop with Active Steady Shot is such a headache... I was lowkey disappointed by how tight it gets. If you want a more practical, budget-conscious setup, I'd suggest the Sony E 10-20mm f/4 PZ G for a few reasons: 1. **Internal Zoom:** Since it doesnt physically extend, your gimbal stays perfectly balanced. Its way safer than some external zooms that can strain the motors over time.
2. **Extra Width:** Starting at 10mm instead of 11mm is actually a big deal because of that heavy crop factor we mentioned. 3. **Electronic Control:** You can use the zoom rocker on the FX30 body which is super handy. Unfortunately, f/4 isn't as good as expected in dark rooms, but for general vlogging, its probably your best bet. gl!

yo, congrats on the FX30! For your situation, I would suggest looking at the Tamron 11-20mm f2.8 Di III-A RXD if you want versatility without breaking the bank. It usually retails around $699, but I've seen it go for $599 on sale lately, which is a steal for a constant f/2.8 zoom. Here is the breakdown for a budget-friendly setup:
- Tamron 11-20mm f2.8 Di III-A RXD: Great all-rounder, weather-sealed, and seriously sharp for the price.
- Samyang AF 12mm f2.0 E-mount: If you really wanna save money, this is usually around $330. It's so light that your gimbal motors barely have to work.
- TTArtisan 10mm f2.0 ASPH APS-C: If you're okay with manual focus (pretty easy at 10mm), this is dirt cheap at around $160. Honestly, that Active Steady Shot crop is real, but even at 11mm or 12mm, you're still getting a decent field of view for vlogging. I'm super happy with the Tamron tho, it just works well. gl!

Honestly, I'm going to go against the grain here and say be careful about just chasing the widest focal length you can find. I've been shooting with the FX30 for over a year now and one thing people rarely mention is the perspective distortion you get when vlogging on those ultra-wide lenses. If you're not careful with your distance, you end up with that weird funhouse mirror look where your nose or forehead gets stretched out. It can really ruin a professional vibe if you aren't expecting it!!! Also, a huge warning for long-term ownership: don't just look at the weight specs. You really need to consider the autofocus reliability over time. The FX30 has a killer AF system, but some third-party glass starts to hunt or pulse once the lens gets a bit of wear or after a camera firmware update. I've had shots ruined because a lens couldn't keep up with the face tracking while I was moving on a gimbal. A few things I've learned the hard way:

• Extreme wide edges can make your gimbal pans look unnatural and stretched.
• Focus breathing can be a total nightmare for cinematic rack focuses.
• Relying on Active Steady Shot too much can turn your sharp 4K into mushy-looking footage because of the digital crop and stabilization artifacts. Basically, don't just buy the widest thing because of the sensor crop. Think about how the image actually looks at the edges and how much you trust the electronics to keep up with you mid-shoot.

Stumbled on this thread and noticed nobody mentioned a huge technical factor yet. Before giving a final recommendation, are you planning to shoot a lot of 4K 120p? The reason I ask is the FX30 hits you with a significant additional crop at high frame rates, which basically turns a wide lens into a standard focal length. If you want peak performance, you really need to look at focus breathing and linear response. In my testing, third-party lenses often struggle with breathing, which can look distracting during rack focuses. I would actually point you toward the Sony E 15mm f1.4 G for professional work. While it is not as wide as the 11mm, it is optically superior in every performance benchmark:

• Zero breathing when used with the FX30 internal compensation software.
• Dual linear motors that handle AF tracking much faster than stepping motors during gimbal moves.
• Tighter tolerances on corner sharpness which is vital for high-resolution 4K delivery. The f1.4 aperture also gives you a much better signal-to-noise ratio in low light compared to those f2.8 zooms. If ur doing client work, that extra bit of optical perfection and AF reliability is basically worth more than the extra field of view tbh.

In my experience, the FX30 crop is a total headache, especially with active steady shot. Honestly, I've used both and it basically comes down to low light vs versatility tho. I personally love the Sony E 11mm F1.8 because its just so light on a gimbal and that f1.8 is literal magic for night shots. But here is why I'd go with the Sigma 10-18mm F2.8 DC DN Contemporary:
- That extra 1mm on the wide end feels huge when filming your own face.
- Zoom helps a ton when youre mid-shoot and cant swap lenses.
- Its still tiny and wont mess up ur gimbal balance. Basically, if you do night stuff, get the prime. For everything else, the Sigma is way more versatile imo. Good luck!!

I remember when I first started out, I used to send my camera and glass to the service center for every little firmware glitch or calibration issue. It was such a massive waste of time and money. Since I grabbed the FX30, Ive really embraced the DIY enthusiast side of things, doing all my own maintenance and updates. I actually ended up pairing it with the Viltrox AF 13mm f/1.4 E and honestly, its a total beast. The extra light you get from that f1.4 aperture is a life saver when youre trying to keep the ISO down on an APS-C sensor. Doing my own lens calibration and gimbal tuning has made the whole setup feel way more reliable than just relying on factory settings.

• Always perform your own firmware updates for both the body and the lens; it usually solves those annoying AF hunting issues people blame on the hardware.
• Get a proper sensor cleaning kit and learn the process yourself so you dont have to pay for professional service every time you swap lenses in a dusty environment.

Good to know!