Skip the Tilta rig and grab a SmallRig 3667 Cage for your camera. Honestly, the stock screen is tiny for critical focus, so get a Atomos Ninja V 5.2-inch Monitor.

Late to the party but honestly, skip the expensive external monitors for now. They just eat through batteries and add weight you dont really need. The stock screen is fine if you focus zoom properly. Save those funds for better glass instead.

• SmallRig 3206 Full Cage is plenty sturdy for studio work
• Sony NP-FZ100 Rechargeable Battery extras are non-negotiable Cheap rigging hasnt worked for me in the past, so stick to the basics and avoid the flashy accessories.

^ This. Also, I have been thinking about your setup since I saw your post earlier today. Honestly, when I first started my own studio work, I spent way too much on fancy cages before realizing that simple weight distribution matters more than brand names. My current rig uses a basic support piece that just keeps the center of gravity stable, and honestly, I have been really satisfied with how it handles during long shoots. Regarding the screen issue, the stock display is fine for casual stuff, but I learned the hard way that missing critical focus is a nightmare in post. Instead of the popular choice, I use a separate recording unit that features high-bitrate codecs, which makes my workflow so much smoother.

• Ensure your baseplate has enough sliding range for proper balancing
• Look into modular top handles if you need to mount XLR adapters later
• Consider a dummy battery adapter if you are shooting long-form studio content There is this great community resource called the cinematography database that really helped me understand how to map my buttons for quick access. It made a massive difference for my efficiency. You should check out some of their baseline configurations if you feel overwhelmed by the menus. Hope you get your gear dialed in before your deadline because it is such a killer camera to work with once it feels like an extension of your hand.