Hey everyone! I finally pulled the trigger and upgraded to the Sony FX30 recently. I’m absolutely loving the workflow and the colors coming out of this APS-C sensor, but I’ve hit a bit of a crossroads when it comes to glass. Up until now, I’ve been using standard Sony E-mount photo lenses, and while they’re great for autofocus and run-and-gun work, they lack that "cinematic" soul and tactile control I’m looking for in my narrative projects.
I really want to dive into the world of dedicated cinema lenses to get those smooth, long focus throws and a de-clicked manual aperture ring. However, my bank account is definitely feeling the sting after buying the camera body, a cage, and a decent V-mount setup. I’m looking for something that fits the "budget" category—ideally under $500 or $600—while still offering a significant jump in build quality and image character over a standard kit lens.
I’ve been going down a YouTube rabbit hole looking at brands like Meike, 7Artisans, and Sirui. The Meike Cine Primes seem like a solid choice for the price, but I’m worried about how they’ll balance on the FX30 since it’s a relatively compact body. I mostly shoot short films and the occasional music video, so I’m looking for a versatile focal length to start with—maybe something around 25mm or 35mm (which would be roughly a 37mm or 50mm equivalent on this crop sensor).
One thing I'm specifically curious about is lens breathing. Since the FX30 has that great internal focus breathing compensation, does that even work with these fully manual budget cine lenses, or is that feature strictly for Sony's own glass? Also, should I prioritize a native E-mount lens, or is it worth looking into adapting older EF mount glass for more character?
For those of you who have been using the FX30 for filmmaking, what would you say is the best "bang for your buck" cine lens to start a kit? I’d love to hear your recommendations on which brand offers the best image quality without breaking the bank!
Hey, in my experience:
- Meike 35mm T2.1 S35 Cine Lens: Better QC.
- 7Artisans 35mm T1.05 Vision Cine Lens: Risky.
Sony breathing comp wont work with manual glass, basically only native lenses. gl
Quick question—are you mostly handheld or using a gimbal? Coz the FX30 is tiny and balance is tricky. Had a second to think about this and honestly, Sony's breathing comp won't work with these; it's strictly for native glass. Unfortunately, I've had issues with QC on cheap primes. * Sirui Nightwalker 35mm T1.2 S35 Cine Lens: Way more character than Meike.
* TTArtisan 35mm T1.25 Cine Lens: Cheap, but build isn't as good as expected tbh. Native E-mount is way simpler than adapting EF.
Adding my two cents here, I definitely agree with the others that you shouldn't count on the internal breathing comp for these. Its a proprietary Sony thing, so once you go manual, youre on your own. Honestly, if you're worried about reliability and want something that wont fail you on a shoot, I'd be a bit wary of the ultra-budget brands. I've seen some of those cheaper rings get super gritty or even slip after a few months of heavy use, which is a nightmare when you're trying to hit focus marks. If you want the safest bet for a first cine lens, maybe look at the Samyang 35mm T1.5 VDSLR MK2 Cine Lens. It’s right in your budget and they’ve been making this line forever. The build is way more predictable than some of the newer brands, and they're relatively lightweight for the FX30. I’d also stick to native E-mount tbh. Adapting EF glass sounds cool for "character," but cheap adapters often have a tiny bit of play or wobble. When you're pulling focus manually, even a tiny bit of movement in the mount can ruin a shot. Better to have a solid, native connection so you dont have to worry about it mid-scene!
Late to the party but I gotta ask before I dive into the data—are you planning on using a wireless follow focus or are you mostly pulling by hand? It sounds like a small detail but it really changes what kind of mechanical stress you are putting on the lens housing and the gears. I learned this the hard way a couple years back when I built out my first s35 kit. I went for the cheapest thing with the fastest aperture I could find, thinking I was getting a total steal because the specs looked great on paper. On paper, it was perfect, but after about four months of heavy use, the internal grease started to migrate. I ended up with a literal dead spot in the focus throw right where I usually hit my marks for close-ups. It was a total nightmare on a narrative shoot because I just couldnt trust my muscle memory anymore. Since then, Ive realized that how those internal mechanics are actually machined matters way more than just having a fast T-stop. Basically, if the mechanics fail, the glass doesnt matter anyway. Once I know your rig setup, I can probably give you better advice on what will actually survive a year of shooting.